Kanchanaburi, Pt. 1

[I haven’t been able to upload photos at the Internet shop here in Sangkhlaburi–there is no CD drive I can access and they won’t let me plug my laptop in (this after the employee told me I could, and I went a mile back to my guesthouse to pick it up. The boss then came in and overruled the decision, saying “Virus. Virus.”) So, photoless posting for now, but I’ll get pics up as soon as I can. Also, the machine I am typing on is obscenely slow and makes me want to weep.]

Kanchanaburi turned out to be a worthwhile first step from Bangkok. I had originally intended to go south, but wasn’t feeling the call of the beach or the island life just yet. I think part of the reason for that is because I’m traveling alone (more thoughts on this in an upcoming post). I can’t imagine trying to do this trip any other way, but there are certain things–like going to a beach–that don’t have quite the same allure when you’re by yourself. It kind of feels like taking a trip to Hawaii alone.

So, I’ve decided on a more kultural/off-the-beaten track trail for now. Kanchanaburi isn’t exactly either one, but it was interesting nonetheless.

Just staying in a floating bungalow was worth the trip. The river was calm, but when a speedboat or a floating karaoke bar would come passing by, the wake would gently rock my room. Plus: Sunsets. Hammock.

On my first full day, I rented a bicycle and explored the town. It was a good way to get around, even if I was the only person between the ages of 11 and 95 not on a motorbike. Kanchanaburi is actually a small city of maybe 100,000 people, with a downtown area of markets and shops and a couple of main roads lined with strip malls and motorbike dealers. Tourists mostly stay in the guesthouses along the river, and hang out on a neighboring street of bars and travel agencies and massage parlors–kind of a mini Bangkok. (Some bars: Spread Eagle Bar, Easy Bar, 69 Bar.) The main tourist attraction, the River Kwai bridge itself, is at the end of this road.

My big activity on day one was a 30 km day trip to the Wat Pa Luangta Bua Yannasampano Forest Monastery–the Tiger Temple.

The Temple opened in 1994; a few years later local villagers brought the monks some tiger cubs whose parents had been killed by poachers. The monks took them in and began raising them and now 17 tigers live there (10 of which were born in captivity), along with herds of wild boar, buffalo, horses, and peacocks. As a visitor, you’re brought to Tiger Canyon, where you are led around, slowly, by the hand and allowed to touch the tigers and have your photos taken with them (which I will post). The tigers are amazingly sedate–they seem drugged but I’m assured they aren’t–and the experience has a touristy feel. Still, there’s something attention-focusing about being that close to an animal so big and beautiful, and so able to kill you on a whim. The monks are raising funds to construct “Tiger Island” (yes!) where the younger generation of tigers will live in a more natural environment, preparing for an eventual release into the wild. Donations, if you’re so inclined, can be made through their website. (I’m starting a page of links to charities I encounter along the way.)

In the evening, I hung out with a couple of young Thais named Jeanette and (I swear) Porn, who work for a tour operator connected to my guest house. They were very silly (or “ting tong”). I talked Porn into going down the river with me in a little plastic rowboat that had been tied to my bungalow. Things were fine until we tried to turn around and realized how strong the current was. I had to paddle like mad to get us close to a pier, where someone caught a rope that Porn threw to him. It was ridiculous.

Jeanette and Porn took me to the local night market for dinner, one of my more authentical Thai eating experiences so far. My favorites were these little dumplings that are eaten for dessert–a sticky, gooey outside shell is made crepe-style right on the spot and filled with a mixture of what seemed like nuts and rice and brown sugar. Maybe some meat too. They’re served on lettuce with sprigs of parsley and tiny chili peppers as condiments. I will get more information about these; I asked what they were called several times but the name was way too long to remember.

More in Pt. 2 . . .